This is an extract from one of my stories. It is from 1996, when I spent four months volunteering on a kibbutz in Israel. Kibbutz Horshim is located about thirty kilometres east of Tel Aviv,
almost on the border of what is now the occupied territories, or the West
Bank. Established in 1955, it has a residential population of around 200.
Half of those are actually kibbutz members (kibbutzniks);most of the others
simply rent accommodation here. A kibbutz is somewhat like a small town,
except that the businesses and industries in a kibbutz are not owned by
individuals, but by the collective, and profits are pooled, and then
distributed as necessary by a council of kibbutzniks. There are over 300
such kibbutzim in Israel, and people come from all around the world to work
on them as volunteers.
Horshim earns income from enterprises including cotton, wheat,
avocados, chickens and dairy cattle. There is also a large commercial
greenhouse, a factory producing building insulation
material, and five kindergartens. Many people are also 'employed' in
service industry positions
such as the communal laundry ( komuna ), the kitchen and dining room, the
gardens, the offices
and the garage. The cotton and wheat fields sprawl out over 200 acres. This land is
irrigated with water
from the kibbutz' sewage treatment plant, which also treats sewage from the
neighbouring Arab
village of Kfar Bara. Luther, from Texas, is the only volunteer employed in
the fields. He often
works longer hours than the rest of us, but I think he enjoys this because
it allows him to boast that he's the hardest worker. Funny that he's spent
the last two days in bed. Maybe he's been 'sick'! He helps the three or
four kibbutzniks handle the crops, with extra help only being needed at
harvest time. The avocados however, are being harvested almost all year, from
September to May, requiring
up to six kibbutzniks and four volunteers. This year, from forty-two acres,
we picked a record
800 tonnes, up almost 100% on last year. During the hot summer months in
between, we're kept
busy pruning the trees and maintaining the irrigation system. At the
moment, there's usually just
myself and my boss Amos working. My Italian workmate Paolo has been
incapacitated
for three weeks with a knee injury he sustained while dancing!
Sometimes, we are 'helped' by some of the schoolchildren on the kibbutz, who have to put in a
certain number of
work days per year.
The kids also help in the chickens- well, what can I say about the
chickens? Every six weeks, a truckload of baby chickens arrives, and
several volunteers are called upon to unload these cute,
yellow, fluffy little things into their new home; a huge, empty shed with
the only luxury being a layer of sawdust on the concrete floor. Six weeks
later, we are again called on to empty these sheds, now wall to wall with
dirty, scruffy, smelly, noisy white beasts. What happened to the adorable
little pets we put there just six weeks ago? Needless to say, this is not
something we look forward to.
The raffet or dairy is another place most of us choose to avoid.
Unlike dairy
farms I've seen in Australia and New Zealand, the 400 cows here do not
roam and graze in green fields, but are kept under cover and fed on hay.
The smell of this place can be really something! However my roommate Alex,
another American, has been working in the raffet since he arrived here four
months ago, and really seems to enjoy it. I think he's become used to the
smell. I hope I'll soon get used to the smell of his dirty work clothes and
gumboots lying around our flat. Just joking, Alex!
All I know about the greenhouse is that it looks very big, and that
other volunteers who have
escaped from there say that the boredom of working here is the worst
torture known to mankind.
I don't dare to attempt to find out any more, lest I become the next
victim.
The Termokir factory is also somewhat of a mystery, not unlike Willy
Wonka's chocolate factory. People arrive, and people leave, and there are
strange noises coming from within. But the real mystery is that almost
everyone on the kibbutz owns a Termokir t-shirt, and try as I might, I
can't find out where they get 'em. I must be fair to Johan, the South
African volunteer who works in the factory. He has invited me, on several
occasions, to have a guided tour of the factory. I just 'haven't gotten
around to it'- life's a bit like that around here. I began to wonder how a kibbutz of two hundred people could need five
kindergartens.
Actually, most of the children come from outside the kibbutz, and their
parents pay for them to be looked after here. Working in the kindergarten
is difficult if you don't speak Hebrew, so only one volunteer, Makiko, a
crazy Japanese girl ( my girlfriend ) works there. She is fluent in Hebrew,
and her main interest is making kids cry. The komuna (communal laundry) usually has one volunteer helping the few kibbutzniks who
run it, but at the
moment they're on their own; Sanna, the Finnish volunteer asked that she
never, never, never be
put back in 'that place'. Apparently, your boredom threshold has to be
quite high to survive even
one day in the komuna. Stop the presses! - Yoko, our new Japanese
volunteer, is now working
two days a week in the komuna, and seems to be handling it okay. The kitchen and dining room are probably the most 'social' places to
work, with up to six kibbutzniks and as many volunteers working there at
once. Most of the jobs here are quite menial; washing pots, cleaning
tables, and peeling potatoes, but there are certain 'perks'- such as
kitchen staff Coenie and Masuko being seen a few days ago gorging
themselves on supreme pizza when the rest of us were served plain cheese
pizza; and dining room staff always licking their lips after 'tasting'
another one of Mosher's wonderful cakes. The kitchen not only provides food
for the whole kibbutz, but has a contract to cater for groups outside. Meanwhile, just outside the cool sanctity of the
ceiling-fan-ventilated-fly-screened-for- comfort-
Mosher's-cakes-for-everyone dining room, toils David. David is an American
volunteer (yes, another one!) and is the man of the garden, helping two
women...and loving it! I've worked with David on three occasions now, and
it seems that someone has neglected to tell him about a
morning break. I'm certain he won't leave until his personal battle to rid
the kibbutz of every thorn, thistle, weed and damned lantana bush has been
won. Volunteers are not asked to work in the offices, but we are often
found in there, as that is where we can send and receive faxes -for free!
The ladies in the office are very sweet; I wonder if it has anything to do
with the avocados I supply them?
The post office downstairs is guarded by a gruesome gargoyle. The owner of
this hideous beast (she thinks it's a dog, poor soul ) is Jaffa, the
postmistress. Jaffa's manner can be even more
intimidating than her garg... dog, possibly explaining the five degree drop
in temperature as you
dare to walk through her doorway. But if you get past her gruff exterior
with gifts of avocados and flowers, and flattering comments about her
hairstyle, you may just start to receive some of your mail.
We are allowed to send three letters or five aerograms per week at no
cost, and we can also
leave our films at Jaffa's office for developing. The kibbutz has a small fleet of about twenty cars and vans and it is
up to the four or five men in the garage to keep these, and other
machinery, maintained. It seems miraculous to me that most of these
vehicles still run, since on the numerous occasions I have visited the
garage, I have never seen these men actually performing any mechanical
duties. Instead I find them talking on the telephone, talking on a mobile
phone, just talking, having a coffee break/ cold drink break/
cigarette break, driving in or driving out, or washing their hands ( I
think to wash off the traces of Mosher's cake). The kibbutz has it's own nurse, and a dentist in attendance certain
days of the week. These services, and any necessary medication, are free
for kibbutzniks and volunteers- all part of the idea of a collective.
Three meals a day are provided in the dining room ( except on
Shabatt ) but if you tire of
salad for breakfast and dinner every, every day ( how could you ever tire
of that? ), there are
two stores on the kibbutz. Hereupon, we discover one of the greatest
unsolved mysteries of
the modern world. The two shops are open different hours from each other,
and different
hours on different days...sometimes. For example, the kolbo is open from
2:00 till 4:00 on Sundays, 1:00 till 2:00 on Wednesdays, and 11:00 till
12:00 on Fridays....maybe. The marcolit is open sometimes in the daytime,
and sometimes in the evening.... maybe. The kolbo sells vodka, wine and
cordial; the marcolit sells beer, cider and fruit juice. The kolbo sells
chocolates, sweets and chips; the marcolit sells ice creams and coke.
Amazing! Life as a volunteer becomes much easier when you finally give up
trying to figure out what times the kolbo, marcolit and komuna are open.
I've been here over three months now, and I'm proud to say I have no idea (
about anything, I'm sometimes told!) I guess each volunteer's personal experience here is unique, but
generally speaking, our average workday is as follows: we start work at
6:00am , after a cup of coffee together in the
dining room. The work is often hard, but in a relaxed atmosphere. We break
for breakfast at 8:00, which is a big social occasion; we break again for
lunch at 12:00, and our day is over around 2:00. Favourite after work
pastimes are: sleeping, drinking, and going to the pool. The long, hot July
afternoons are ideal for all of these.
The arrival of new volunteers is always looked forward to with much
anticipation. It is
fascinating to watch friendships, relationships and romances unfold. Also,
people's character
seems to change as they adjust to the worry-free lifestyle of the kibbutz.
After dinner, we usually gather in each others rooms to tell tall
stories and drink a little of our $2 a litre vodka. we also have our own bomb shelter-
the only one which is above ground- where we can go to play loud music and carry on like idiots.! One of the bomb shelters has
recently been converted into a pub which is open on Friday nights.
Saturday is the Jewish Sabbath, and our only day off. For most of us,
it's a welcome day of
rest, but sometimes our volunteer leader Arielle organises a day trip to
the beach, or to a good
spot for hiking and swimming.
Hint, hint Arielle! During my time here,
we've been taken to Zavitan Falls in the Golan, and to the Banyas, also in
the north. On that trip, we took a slight detour and (very illegally)
photographed the Lebanon border.
Every second week, we are taken on an outing, usually to the movies,
but this week we're going to the Dolphinarium in Tel Aviv - nothing to do
with marine mammals, but a South American themed beachside dance club.
Tonight, we're all going to Jaffa, near Tel Aviv. There's some sort of
festival going on, but for most of us (especially the 'long termers') it
doesn't matter what's on. It's just a free chance to escape from the
kibbutz for a while. We are
also allowed three days off per month. Last month, Makiko and I used our
days off to see the
sights of Jerusalem. That used up much of my three month bonus, but it was
worth it. Many of us learn a new value for money after a while here. As a
volunteer, we receive ten
shekels a day pocket money (US$3). To avoid the problems associated with a
high turnover of
volunteers, they have introduced a retroactive ten-shekel-per-day bonus for
anyone who stays
three months. That's 900 shekels- well worth sticking around for, and most
of us do. After that
three months, we are paid twenty shekels a day, which is enough to allow
you to save a little, if
you're frugal.
But for me, the biggest bonus was the all-expenses-paid volunteer trip
which they hold every
three months. The last one, in May, was to Masada, the Dead Sea, and Eilat.
We were taken on a
4 -wheel drive tour through the desert, we abseiled, we cruised on a yacht
and snorkelled on the
Red Sea.
All in all, I'd have to say, the t-shirts are right - "It's Fun To
Be A Volunteer!"
Visit my favourite books page for some recommended reading relating to my time in Israel. Roll your mouse over the cover photo for a brief description. Click for more details, to purchase online at a discounted price from Amazon, or to view other titles. (if you buy a book, or any other product from Amazon, through this link on my site, I get a small commission- even more if you buy the book you clicked on. Go on, buy a book today!)
tips for surviving the kibbutz experience
· In many countries, there are agencies which make a living from Israel's
kibbutz system. If you are interested in spending some time as a volunteer
on a kibbutz, these agencies will give you information, arrange your
airfare and initial accommodation in a hostel, and guarantee prompt
placement on kibbutz. However, you will save a lot of money if you do it
yourself, and all of the volunteers I spoke to found a position on a
kibbutz almost immediately, by visiting the Kibbutz Placement Office in Tel
Aviv.
· Try to talk to some other backpackers who have been on a kibbutz. If you
are going to Israel independently and applying through the placement office
in Tel Aviv, you should be able to have some degree of choice regarding
your placement. For example, you may prefer a kibbutz close to the city, or
you might want to 'get away from it all'. It should be possible to find out
what sort of work you will be asked to do. Most of the work is fairly
menial, so don't expect to be too choosy, but you may have good reason for
wanting to work (or not work) in a particular field.
· I can only speak from the experience I had at Kibbutz Horshim, but
generally it seems that kibbutzniks are quite accepting of foreign
volunteers and our different ways. Just remember that the kibbutz is their
home, and you are a visitor there. In such a tightly knit social
environment, a little respect goes a long way.
· Some volunteers think a kibbutz experience is going to be a holiday, and
understandably kibbutzniks will resent this sort of attitude. Everyone
appreciates a little effort and hard work, and you will be accepted all the
better for it.
· Understand from the start that this is not a backpackers' hostel; this
will probably be your home for the next few months. The other volunteers
will be your circle of friends for the length of your stay. An ill placed
remark, or a dalliance into the wrong person's bed early in your stay can
have lasting consequences. 'Sus' out the situation first.
· A kibbutz is a very social environment; you will enjoy your time more if
you get involved. However, if you plan to stay for a matter of months, you
should also find other activities, outside the kibbutz. The kibbutz can
become your personal prison, if you don't make the effort to get away on
your own sometimes.
· Just have fun; everyone else will be! |